Quick Lake Atitlán Guide + My Experience in San Marcos la Laguna

Updated Feb 7, 2025 to include updated information, hotel + hostel recommendations and my experience staying in Panajachel as well as San Marcos la Laguna

Lake Atitlan, surrounded by three volcanoes with a fourth active volcano in the distance, is one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. With crooked wooden stilt docks, lush green jungle, high volcanoes, and a never ending supply of surreal lake mist, Lake Atitlan and San Marcos la Lguna is a photographers dream.

I knew that a visit to Lake Atitlan had to be part of my Guatemalan adventure. It is one of the 6 cities you should visit in Guatemala. Popular both in the media and via word of mouth in the travelsphere. I have since visited many times. I have stayed in San Marcos la Laguna in Lake Atitlan and in Panajachel and this is my experience.

What is Lake Atitlan?

Lake Atitlan is known as the most beautiful lake in the world.  The lake is set inside a massive dormant volcano. It was actually nominated to be one of the 7 natural wonders of the world. Lake Atitlan is the deepest lake in Central America. The three active volcanoes, known as ‘the Three Giants’, Atitlan, Talisman, and San Pedro, surround the shores of Lake Atitlan attributing to the epic views the lake is so famous for. Lake Atitlan, formed 84,000 years ago after a volcanic eruption. It is one of the most unique places in the world.

Where is Lake Atitlan?

Lake Atitlan is located in Guatemala’s southwestern highlands in the Sierra Madre Mountain range, around 2.5 hours from Antigua and 3 hours from Guatemala City. Technically, the lake is a body of water in a massive volcanic crater, and is surrounded by volcanoes itself. 

Getting from Antigua to Lake Atitlan 

Traveling around Guatemala is actually quite simple. INGUAT, a government sanctioned tourism provider, transfers travellers from popular tourist destination to tourist destination. These shuttles run several times a day. They are essentially a large mini van that picks up visitors at their hotels and hostels and transfers them to their next destination. Costing anywhere between $20-$30, you can book your tickets at the front desk of any hostel or hotel. To get from Antigua to Lake Atitlan, you simply book in INGUAT shuttle, which will take you directly to Panajachel in around 3 hours. Once you’re in Panajachel, you can grab a ferry to which ever Lake Atitlan town you plan on staying in.

Of course to get from Antigua to Lake Atitlan you can arrive via private transfer, a taxi, Uber, and by local (chicken) busses. It is my recommendation that you take advantage of the tourist shuttles as they are reliable, cheap, and pretty comfortable. 

How to get around Lake Atitlan?

You must use the water taxi service to get around Lake Atitlan. There are only a few towns that have true road access. The major hub for Lake Atitlan is Panajachel. This is where you will arrive and depart the Lake Atitlan region from. There will be a number of boats at the town dock going to all destinations. Simply ask which one to get in.

The prices for the boats are regulated. Also don’t get confused when you hear local person paying less. Locals get charged half price per journey. Here are the tourist prices for the Lake Atitlan water taxi:

Panajachel to Santa Cruz: Q10
Panajachel to Jaibalito: Q10
Panajachel to Tzununa: Q15
Panajachel to San Marcos: Q25
Panajachel to San Pedro: Q25
Panajachel to Santiago Atitlan: Q25
San Marcos to Santa Cruz: Q10
San Pedro to Santiago: Q10
San Pedro to Santa Cruz: Q20
San Pedro to San Marcos: Q10

Which Town in Lake Atitlan Should you Stay in? Which Lake Atitlan Hotel in Guatemala is right for you?

The question posed when planning a trip to Lake Atitlan is, where do you stay? Which Lake Atitlan Hotel in Guatemala and which town is right for you? There does not seem to be a ‘typical travellers spot’ where everyone goes. There are instead a variety of Mayan towns, 11 to be exact, so how do you pick the right one? Where does everyone go? What is the purpose for the trip? What do you even do here? Just thinking about planning a trip to Lake Atitlan gives me a minor existential crisis. Who am I anyways? Nah just kidding, lets brief.

6 Lake Atitlan Towns you Should Consider Staying in 

1.Panajachel

Panajachel is the town where the majority of shuttles and buses drop visitors off. It is the biggest and most populated town on the lake meaning it has the most hotels and restaurants. Quite a few tour companies operate out of Panajachel, so by staying here you will have access to most tours.

Panajachel is full of shopping opportunities, with lots of people selling knick-knacks and clothes. It also has the best grocery store on the lake. Panajachel is the easiest town to stay in to explore Lake Atitlan. With no boats required to get in and out, it is regular city living on the lake. Panajachel has great nightlife and caters to expats more than backpackers.

I stayed in Panajachel on my last visit to Lake Atitlan. I have detailed my personal experience later in this post.

BUDGET- Stay here at the Hostal The Friends
MID RANGE- Stay here at the Hotel Villas Jabel Tinamit
LUXURY- Stay here at the Hotel Dos Mundos Panajachel

2.  San Pedro 

San Pedro in Lake Atitlan is lively and colourful, with lots to do. It is where you go to party at night, with Mr. Mullets hosting the iconic pub crawl. There are a number of restaurants, coffee shops and stores to visit while exploring downtown San Pedro. There are great hotels and hostels in this town, and it has a very nice lake front.

It takes about 45 minutes via boat to visit or stay in San Pedro from Panajachel. You can also utilize tuktuk’s to make your way to neighbouring San Juan. This is also one of the only towns to have an ATM. Tons of backpackers choose to stay in San Pedro because of its nightlife. It is busy, it is loud and there is a lot of western food.

BUDGET- Stay here at Zoola Resort San Pedro La Laguna
MID RANGE- Stay here at Amigos
LUXURY-Stay here at Sababa Resort (also has Mid priced dorms)

3. San Juan La Laguna

San Juan La Laguna is my favourite town on Lake Atitlan Guatemala. Full of charm, San Juan la Laguna is lively and colourful. A rainbow road leads you from the very cute lake front to the top of the hill. With hotels, shops, cafe’s and restaurants on either side. You will find live music, art galleries, and photo backdrops all along the street.

You can access San Juan via 45 minute boat ride from Panajachel or take a tuktuk from San Pedro to arrive at this charming little town.

BUDGET/MID RANGE/LUXURY- Stay here at Mundo Abu San Juan (the best)

4. Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz is a relatively small town on Lake Atitlan. Only accessible by boat, this is one of the locations that has remained Mayan. While many expats do choose to stay in Santa Cruz, there is a somewhat symbiotic relationship. Hotel, hostels and restaurant are woven between the towns lush green spaces. This is one home to the less touristy swimming areas, jungle paths and hikes, and great volcano views.

If you were interested in diving in Lake Atitlan, this is only place to dive from. There is no ATM’s, not many restaurants, and no nightlife. Santa Cruz is a quiet Mayan town on Lake Atitlan.

BUDGET/LUXURY COMBO- Stay here at La Iguana Perdida
NEW HOSTEL – Stay here at the Lemon Tree

5. Jaibalito 

Jaibalito is the least developed and smallest town on Lake Atitlan. It is inaccessible by car. Due to its isolation, Jaibalito is the most authentic Mayan town in Lake Atitlan. Limited places to stay in Jaibalito and isolation has kept travelers out of this town so you will find mostly Mayan people living there.

There are few accommodations, one lake side club with a hot tub and pool, and a couple of restaurants. This very quiet village is where you should stay if you are looking for a cultural experience. Good volcano viewing, cheap food and stray dogs will be part of your Jaibalito experience.

MID RANGE – Stay here at Casa Axel
LUXURY –Stay here at Casa y Café del Mundo in Jaibalito

6. San Marcos la Laguna

San Marcos La Laguna is full of new age hippies. It is like a giant North American hippie commune. You will find yoga classes and reiki practices on every street. You will also find lots of opportunities to experiment with psychedelics as well as to attend a cacoa ceremony.

The lower part of the town has no cars, simply foot paths, which is pleasant. There is road access in the upper part of the town. It is possible to taxi/shuttle direct from San Marcos to other Guatemalan destinations. There are a number of coffee shops, hippie markets and expensive restaurants in San Marcos. The best part of San Marcos is having access to the Cerro Tzankujil Reserve. This is where you will find the famous 8 meter high cliff jump and some unreal volcano views.

A fair amount of gentrification has been brought on by the ‘hippie’ culture. You will find there is some tumultuous energy between the locals, who are being priced out of their sacred lands, and the travelers. I stayed here and have detailed my experience below!

BUDGET- Stay here at Casa Madera
MID RANGE – Stay here at Lush Atitlan in San Marcos la Laguna
LUXURY- Stay here at Fuego Atitlan Eco Hotel

My Experience at Lake Atitlan Staying in San Marcos La Laguna

Having the choice of all of these different towns, I decided to go with San Marco’s la Laguna. I was motivated by this stunning Lake Atitlan hotel, Lush Atitlan. I also I love a laid-back lifestyle. Let me share my personal experience with you staying in San Macros La Laguna on Lake Atitlan.

Getting to San Marcos La Laguna from Panajachel

Panajachel is the travellers hub for Lake Atitlan. It is the town where most shuttles and buses drop visitors off to explore Lake Atitlan. It takes around 2.5 hours to get there from Antigua via INGUAT tourism shuttle. Once you reach Panajachel you must use the Lake Atitlan water taxi’s located at the docks. These are fixed prices.

It took around 40 minutes to reach San Marcos la Laguna from the ferry docks at Panajachel. The cost was 25GTQ. Once I arrived to San Marcos, it took a moment to get my bearings. Instead of one obvious road, there is a beach and a few footpaths to follow.

Eventually I saw a sign which read ‘Lush’, the hotel I was staying at. The sign pointed down a vegetation covered dirt path. I followed the pathway, with a waist high stone wall on one side and thick bush on the other. Eventually I found the entrance to my hotel.

Getting Around San Marcos

Upon checking into one of the most instagrammable hotels I have ever seen, it was explained to me that in San Marcos, the way to move between locations was via footpaths. The lower part of the town has no motor operable roads. No cars no problem, honestly I enjoyed the tranquility of not having cars. I headed towards the main street in town, following make shift street signs posted on the footpaths. Eventually I found a slightly wider cobblestoned path.

Once on the main street I was met with a pleasant surprise! Lots of people, many expats, some travelers, and some Guatemalan and Mayan’s.

On the main street, there were stores, craft stalls, restaurants, cafe’s, fruit stands, and everything else you could need. What a pleasant way to live, I thought about the footpaths, as I strolled through the streets shopping. I spent the afternoon checking out restaurants and doing some grocery shopping in the mini markets. My hotel room at Lush came with a full kitchen so I wanted to cook at least once there.

San Macros la Laguna is known as a hippie town. I did see quite a few humans wandering around barefoot dressed in North American hippie garb. Not something I am personally a fan of. When sharing a space with many communities, I see the importance of keeping things comfortable for all. If the locals are wearing shoes, maybe you should too. Both out of respect and sanitization.

I finally decided on a curry restaurant which had a big fireplace. The perfect setting to go with the crisp air that provided by Lake Atitlan.  After a lovely warm curry dinner, I made my way back to Lush via flash light. This is key. *Take a flash light with you as there are no street lights on the dirt footpaths and it can get dark and muddy*. You will want to know where you are going.

Crime in San Marcos la Laguna

San Marcos is a very small Mayan community, quickly being gentrified by tourists. The Mayan people have less means in comparison to many travelers and are being priced out of their sacred lands. A result is a tumultuous relationship between locals and visitors. Petty crime can be considered a problem in San Marcos. These are two prominent issues to consider before choosing to stay in San Marcos.

When wandering at night, there are very few people. It is very quiet, and you are on a dark dirt path. Using your cell phone as a flashlight may call a little extra attention to you. It is not that this happens often, but I urge you to use your head and be as safe and uncompromised as possible. If you have a traditional flashlight, use it. For more on safety traveling through Guatemala read here.

What’s in San Marcos la Laguna

There are a variety of restaurants on the waterfront of San Marcos la Laguna, each having its own little dock. I enjoyed going on daily morning walks along the beaches and down various docks on the shores of San Marcos. In the morning the weather is the most clear, the water is calm, and the view is peacefully perfect. This was the best beach walking time for me.

There are also a few above average hostels and bars in San Marcos. The town goes on much further than I ever expected as the main street was just the start. Once you make it past the main walking street, you will find the motor accessible area. Here there were more markets and restaurants.

Reserva Natural Cerro Tzankujil

San Marcos is home to the Reserva Natural Cerro Tzankujil. This is the best part of staying in San Marcos. This nature reserve is a short walk from town. It costs 15Q to enter and included a number of manicured walking paths and trails. It is also here where you will find the 12 meter jumping platform. An adrenaline junkie myself, I loved my afternoon spent swimming here. There are a couple of swimming/jumping spots in the reserve to explore.

San Marcos is also a hippie haven. I saw many people with brightly coloured hippie pants and dreadlocks, with the smell of marijuana looming in the background. There was a yoga studio at every corner. A place for meditation, a location for massage, reiki, and my favourite….a garden for laughter yoga. My university roommate’s father actually swore by laughter yoga…so just in case you didn’t know…it’s a thing.

There was also a location to try a shaman ceremony where cacao (chocolate) is used as the vehicle for hallucination. I am not sure if I believe it, but it sounds both delicious and fun. This is also not traditionally Mayan, it is a North American creation.

Around San Marcos la Laguna

There is a road in the centre of the town where cars can get in and out to transport people to the airport in Guatemala City or Antigua. You can also find transport to the popular Sunday and Thursday market of Chichicastenango.

There are a variety of tour companies in San Marcos la Laguna. You can catch a trip to Santa Catarina Palopo to enjoy the hot springs from San Marcos. Many tour companies offer hikes up the volcanoes and up to the Indian Nose view point. Kayak rentals are also available in San Marcos.

I never feel like I am going to run out of things to do in Guatemala. I love visiting Lake Atitlan. It is a destination I will continue to go back to and try other towns. Realistically San Marcos, is not my favourite town on the Lake to stay in. Here is a pro/con list for San Marcos La Laguna.

I have a difficult time getting past the North American hippie culture and gentrification. It is also a very expensive part of the lake to stay in.

Pros

The restaurants and coffee shops are great. I enjoyed the lack of cars. I found walking everywhere peaceful, and quite pretty as the footpaths are commonly covered with vegetation. It was a nice break from the concrete and wires I had gotten used to seeing in other Guatemalan cities. San Marcos is close to Jaibalito, Santa Cruz and San Pedro by boat. It is well located in the middle of the lake, so if you are interested in exploring a different city it is easy to do. Boat taxis frequent the docks so getting around is pretty simple.

Cons

I had a difficult time getting past the North American hippie culture. The gentrification in San Marcos is obvious as the Mayan culture becomes over run with hippie culture. Places like ‘The Eagles Nest’ yoga studio and hostel have a continued reputation treating local Guatemalan’s poorly. Due to its popularity as a backpacker destination, San Marcos is has become expensive. It is also mislead as a ‘town with no cars’. Only the lower half of the town is foot paths. The upper half is a regular functioning city. The foot paths, wild beautiful in many places, also come with an extreme amount of dog poo.

Would I stay in San Marco’s la Laguna again? Unlikely. I struggled with the ethics of adding to the gentrification of the community. The limited respect from the barefoot backpackers, and the price. There are other towns located on the Lake I would like to visit and dedicate time to. Including Panajachel, reviews below and in the future San Juan.

My Experience at Lake Atitlan Staying in Panajachel

The first time I went to Lake Atitlan, I chose to stay in San Marcos la Laguna. The town did not resonate with me, so this time I decided to stay in Panajachel. I enjoyed my time in Panajachel. It is a functional Guatemalan city. This means it is loud and busy, there are cars and buses running through at all times. It also means that there are lots of restaurants, coffee shops, little markets, ATM’s and a great grocery store.

By staying in Panajachel, Lake Atitlan and its surrounding towns were incredible accessible. It was easy to get in and out and tours were easy to come by. Staying Panajachel does mean you have to sacrifice some of the ‘laid back’ lake vibes offered at the other towns. It is more ‘Guatemala’ than ‘Lake Atitlan’ if you know what I mean.

Getting to Panajachel

Panajachel is the easiest place on Lake Atitlan to get to. It is the hub for arrivals and departures in the area. Most shuttles, buses, and taxi’s will drop you off at the docks of Panajachel for onward travel around the lake. I took the INGUAT tourist shuttle from Antigua to Panajachel. It took around 2.5 hours and cost $25USD. It was just a 5 minute walk to my hostel from the drop off point.

Getting around Panajachel

Panajachel is a normal Guatemalan city so getting around is easy. I felt comfortable walking around in Panajachel town center so if it was within walking distance, I walked. There are also taxi’s and tuktuks if you were looking to visit somewhere to far to watch. The main boat dock for Lake Atitilan is in Panajachel. You can effectively catch a water taxi anywhere with ease.

Things to do in Panajachel

Panajachel is the main hub for visiting Lake Atitlan. From here you can pick up any tour offered in the area. Most of my time in Panajachel was spent wandering down the boardwalk and promenade. These are pedestrian streets lined with vendors, smoothie shops and restaurants. There was an equally busy boardwalk that followed the lakeshore where I dedicated quite a bit of time as well.

If you are interested in getting out on the lake, you can rent kayaks and paddleboards from any tour operator in Panajachel. Sunrise is the best time to do this as this is when the surrounding volcanoes are most visible.

The Atitlan Nature Reserve is only a 20 minute walk from the centre of Panajchel. For 85Q, it is a great way to spend time in the area. There are a number of hiking trails to explore, a butterfly museum, and a beach to swim from. You might even catch a glimpse of a Quetzel, Guatemala’s national bird. Unfortunately the beach in the town of Panajachel is not the cleanest so I never went swimming there. I saved my swimming for some of the other towns.

Crime in Panajachel

I never felt unsafe wandering around Panajachel during the day. It is a pretty busy city and I felt like most locals were very helpful. Walking along the shoreline and down the wonderful malecon always felt comfortable as did walking the city centre. At night, there is quite a bit of nightlife in Panajachel. I felt comfortable as long as I stayed in the popular areas. After 10:00pm I would make sure not to walk around in less popular areas.

I wouldn’t feel as safe if I was wandering through a quiet area on my own. Though that is true of any destination. Taxi’s and tuktuks always felt safe to me. Overall I would say Panajachel is pretty low risk regarding petty crime. Of course, pick-pocketing and robberies can occur so it is best to remain mindful and moderately cautious

Around Panajachel

Since Panajachel acts as a hub for the area, there is a lot you can access from this point. You can take a day trip to Santa Catarina Palopo. Located south of Lake Atitlan, not only does this little town have hot springs, it is also Mayan. It’s a traditional village with its houses painted bright colours based on the typical indiginous outfits of the Mayan people. Santa Catarina Palopo is a great spot to enjoy Mayan culture and to shop for handicrafts.

Santiago Atitlan is one of Lake Atitlan’s top cultural destinations. There are a number of religious celebrations here throughout the year. Don’t forget to visit Saint Maximon. There is also a creative project in Santiago to talk about the Mayan Massacre of 1990. An important piece of recent Guatemalan history, you can learn more about here.

From Panajachel, you can also visit the famous Chichicastenango market every Sunday and Thursday. This is the biggest market in Central America so be prepared to weave your way through hundreds of shops selling everything from flowers, to clothes, to chickens!

Would I stay in Panajachel again? Maybe. I liked having a trustworthy ATM and full grocery store nearby. I also liked having access to the other surrounding towns. Including the ones not accessible by boat. However, Panajachel is very busy and very loud. On a future visit you will likely see me getting to know one of the other towns instead.

Heading to Guatemala Soon? PIN THIS POST, so you remember where to stay in Lake Atitlan + San Marcos La Laguna!