Cotopaxi Volcano located in Ecuador is one of the world’s highest active volcanos, so active that it erupted less than a few months ago. Climbing Cotopaxi was on my personal bucket list for many years. I wanted to stand on the top and to be part of the 50% of climbers who successfully made it to the summit of this volcano, so I did. Standing at 5,897m (19,347ft), this snow covered and perfectly cone shaped stratovolcano stands on the Eastern Corderilla of the Andes and has erupted over 50 times since 1738.
Attempting to climb Cotopaxi has become a somewhat popular tourist attraction for a number of years. The climb is technical. It requires crampons, ice picks, ropes, harnesses and is nothing short of daunting. Climbers start their summit from the Jose F. Ribas Refugio (base camp) which is situated at 4,800m (15,748ft) at 12:30am so they can reach the summit by 7:30 am. They do this so that the climbers can make a safe return to basecamp before the glacier and snow are soft enough to avalanche.
Attempting this summit was always in my plan, I had dreamed about it, researched it, mentally prepared for it, and finally this year, I was able to try. Here’s my story…
I had spent the last month relaxing on the beach in Salinas with my family, were talking…living at sea level basking in the sun and eating empanadas. This may have been a slight mistake. I left my family in Guayaquil, grabbing a quick flight to Quito 2,850m (9,350ft) where I planned to spend a few days acclimatizing and collecting gear. Fast-forward 2 days later and I had booked my climb, rented my technical gear, done my groceries and was waiting for my ride to Cotopaxi National Park the next morning…so much for the acclimatization.
Day 1 of the climb, myself and 2 other young climbers wait nervously to meet our climbing guides and to take our transportation to the park. We stopped for a lovely lunch…but I was too nervous to eat, so I picked away at my lomo until it was time to continue on to the park. I recall telling a lot of nervous jokes along the way. Oh yeah…I forgot to mention my Raynaud’s disease…nerves? What nerves? Why would anyone be nervous to spend 10 hours on a glacier when they are basically allergic to the cold and have no acclimatization… the jokes continue.
We arrived at our drop off point and took a moment to change into our climbing gear and to organize our packs. From here we had an hours climb upwards to basecamp at 4,800m (15,748ft). If you are wondering, this is where the normal Cotopaxi Park tour takes you and so we passed local Ecuadorians and gringos alike…the only difference was the 20 kilos of equipment attached to our backs. When we reached camp we dropped our bags, grabbed our ice picks and crampons and headed to the glacier to spend a little time prepping for the nights climb. Shortly after, it was back to camp for an early dinner (soup, chicken, rice, bananas) and a cup of tea before heading to bed to try and get some rest before our 12:30 am departure. As if I could get any sleep with all the excitement and nervous energy in the air. Oh and it was REALLY cold. There was no way my sleeping bag was going to keep me comfortable, even with thermal layers, gloves, and hats. Thanks to my Raynauds I had little to no feeling in my hands and feet for what seemed like the entire evening and so I spent the next 5 hours waiting….and shivering.
The 12:00 am alarm rings, it is Easter Sunday (last time people died here was an avalanche on Easter Sunday) and I am ready to get going. I crawl out of my sleeping bag and start to layer, here we go frosties…thermal tights, Lululemon tights, thermal fleece pants, climbing pants, thermal undershirt, sweater, fleece sweater, climbing jacket, socks, socks, socks, plastic boots, buff, headband, hat, merino glove liners, fleece gloves, gortex gloves. You get the picture. I made my way downstairs for a quick breakfast of oatmeal and yoghurt and a cup of tea. It was almost time, we threw on the final touches; harnesses, helmets, gaiters, headlamps and we headed out and up.
The sky was clear, the wind low and the first 200m of the climb was simple, not overly steep and mostly on scree. We marched away in a line following our headlights until we reached the glacier. I was already out of breath. We stopped here to put on our crampons, grab our ice picks and harness into our partners before we started our long and grueling ascent up the volcano. The climb always takes place in the night because the ice is coldest and it is easier to walk on. There was recently an avalanche and so the volcano was slightly steeper with the fresh snow. Now it was just my partner and I as we walked step by step, slowly and steadily, carefully watching our footing. We continued up in a switch back manner. This was going to be a difficult task.
Two hundred more meters and my head started to ache. I felt nauseous. All of a sudden, I regretted my lack of time spent to acclimatize to the altitude. We had to pull over so I could throw up, kneeling in the snow, this was not cute. My guide knew I was determined and he could not have been any better. He patiently waited for me to finish and encouraged me as we continued up. In the dead of the night all I could see were other little headlights ahead in the distance and from behind. We stopped a few more times to throw up but I persevered. This was how it went until about 5,500m (18,044ft).
We were lucky enough to have the opportunity to cross an ice bridge over a deep crevasse in the glacier. My guide checked our ropes and then one at a time we carefully traversed this snow covered balance beam (thank you gymnastics for preparing me for this). We took a small snack break here, not that I was hungry but forced down a chocolate and some water. We had to keep moving.
At 5,600m we shared an ice cave with 3 other climbers. I took this time to catch my breath, shiver, and complain. The other climbers in our ice cave decided at that moment to turn back and part of me really wanted to go with them, back to our (warm?) basecamp. My partner would not let me, he knew it was the altitude speaking and so we continued up. 5,800m came quickly and I was pretty much over it. At one point, I threw myself and my ice pick into the ice and told my guide to continue to the top and I would nap there until he came back…apparently that was not in his plan for me. He rolled up my rope around his pick and started dragging me up the volcano…’Ok Ok’ I said as I stood up.
Ahhh there it was. I could see the peak. We were almost there. Other climbers were encouraging me and my climbers high was peaking (pun intended). We stopped for a moment, as a perfect view of the peak of Chimborazo was within sight. I started to appreciate what I was doing as I could see peaks of mountains and volcanos above the clouds. When we finally finished our last few feet. There it was, the summit, 5,897m (19,347ft). The other climbers cheered for us and hugged us making for such a positive moment. The comradely attitude or of accomplished climbers is something special. It is so cold up there that cameras do not work that well so we were able to take just a few pics depicting our accomplishment. The crater and the perfect view above the clouds provided the ultimate remembrance before we sat down for a snack. It is such an amazing feeling; to push yourself physically and mentally, to only be able to have that short moment to stand on top of nature and look out amongst the world, this is a moment I live for over and over again, as I did on Lascar Volcano and Acatengango. A cold moment later reality hits…we had to go back down.
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Since the way up had been so much work, I had not even had time to appreciate how steep the climb really was…until I turned around to get down, that is. We shortened our ropes and very carefully began to make our descent. Descents are never easy for me, I often find myself becoming dizzy and occasionally even losing vision so my rope was extra short for this one. We had to sit and relax a couple of times on the way down, but we were running out of time. The sun was out and the snow was becoming soft. It was not until about 5,400m (17,716ft) that I started feeling better. We had a fun time for the rest of the descent, occasionally crashing through soft snow, laughing and falling. It was getting warmer as well. When we finally reached the end of the glacier, I was happy to lose some of my technical gear and walk arm in arm with my guide back to basecamp. I was tired, sore, and numb in some places but my sense of accomplishment took that all away. My guide could not have been any better. He knew that I had it in me. He was cool, calm and collected the entire way and encouraged me when I needed it most. I have so much to thank him for as he helped me accomplish this big dream of mine.
We arrived at basecamp, repacked our bags and finished our last hour of descent to the car. We piled in as me, our guides, and my 2 other climbing friends crashed like the car was actually a cloud bed in disguise. Now I need to pick a new mountain goal…Aconcagua anyone?
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Wow, what an achievement!
We saw it from afar, but never went anywhere close (or as high).
Wasn’t it a bit reckless though? I thought the golden rule of altitude sickness was you vomit, you abort?!
Hardcore chick indeed!
But those views…
James | The Globe Wanderers says
wow, wow, WOW!
Wow to the experience, wow to the journey and wow to the photos. Love it all.
Would be so cool to climb a volcano and something I’m eager to achieve someday. For now, I’m very envious and in total admiration. Awesome effort! Great job.
Oh God! I was shivering in cold and my heart racing as I was reading it! It’s so hard in the altitude and so tempting to give up… Good job!! You go girl!
Well done. I am thinking of visiting Cotopaxi in a couple of weeks although not sure if I will climb. We’ll see.
Awesome! I climbed Kilimanjaro last year (5,895m) and altitude sickness made it hard for me. Good on you to carry on to the top, great effort… 50% success rate is quite low!!!!
I’m forwarding this article to my Kilimanjaro friends, they may get inspired for another adventure! ;)
How did you prepare for it, for the technical part?
Dannielle Lily says
Wow, you must be really proud of yourself! I thought I did well on a three fay trek up Mount Rinjavi earlier this year, but this looks far more challenging. I definitely couldn’t handle the snow!
Erin Zipperle says
What an incredible achievement!! I admire you so much. To have a huge goal and keep pushing (no matter how taxing it is physically) to achieve it – just amazing. And then to get to the top of that mountain and know what you just accomplished. Can’t even imagine how incredible it must have felt! Congratulations to you!
Karla (Karla Around The World) says
What an amazing adventure. It does sound like a very challenging hike. I would put this on my bucket list too!
That looks like so much fun!!!
Really fabulous. Visiting a live volcano is in my bucket list. Thanks for further inspiring. Great shots!
Nic from Roaming Renegades says
Wow, what an amazing experience, this is something we would love to do. We do a lot of climbing so this would be a good challenge.
Mary Charie | Two Monkeys Travel says
Now this is interesting! I would love to try this at some point of my travel! :-)
Grietje from TravelGretl says
Oh wauw, that is quite an adventure, and surely not for everyone! But the reward must be amazing! Looks wonderful :)
Wow that’s amazing! How did you feel after reaching the top, is the feeling different for a volcano than for say a mountain ? Personally, scaling a volcano should be on a different peak (pun intended) altogether !
Sanket D. says
Oh you guys look like you had so much fun in those pictures. As a kid, I was mighty interested in volcanoes and I’ve wanted to scale one at some point of time. You look adorably happy!
Gemma Two Scots Abroad says
Wow, congratulations. Are you an experienced climber? Altitude sickness is the worst, one girl on our trek to Machu Picchu suffered real bad. Craig ate far too many empanadas in Colombia!
Conor from Bean Abroad Travel Blog says
God, that first photo is just so good, I could stare at it all day. The real scene must be unreal!
Anne Klien ( MeAnne) says
Wow what an awesome adventure….. beautiful view of snow capped mountain.
Congratulations!!I have never heard of this volcano but I am intrigued. How far was the actual walk up (distance not altitude)? Wat are you going to do next?
Julius from Traveltipy says
Wow, this volcano doesn’t seem to be so high on the picture :) I’ve been to only one volcano, a smaller one in Vulcano island near Sicily. It was amazing experience that I will never forget!
Anita Hendrieka says
Wow what an amazing experience! I would love to see a glacier!
Madi @ Restless Worker says
Looks like an incredible adventure!
What a great adventure!! I really want to clim the Cotopaxi. Great post!.
Wow…congragulations, on ticking off your bucket list climbing the volcano… your guide is very nice indeed he helped you in achieving your goal. I agree for the views it is totally worth it to exert yourself physically and mentally(:
Bekki Young says
Every time I read a blog like this it makes me want to be in the mountains or walking a challenging path.
I love how you didn’t sugar-coat it to be the hero, you sound just like me raynaurds, nervous jokes and all. Continue climbing my friend and continue telling me about it!
Thanks for sharing your experience with Cotopaxi, I found your blog super helfpul. I’m planning a trip next year, and I was curious about the equipment rental. I saw you rented ice axes, crampons, and helmets – do you remember where you found the guide and gear? Also do you recall if other items were available, such as gaiters or belay jackets? If possible I’d like to minimize what I have to take in my luggage. Thanks!
Kimberly Erin says
Hi Kevin! You are so welcome and thank you for writing in! That sounds AMAZING, so pleased to see that Cotopaxi is on your list! Its such a challenge but the climbers high is unreal, the view is amazing, and I am just a sucker for glacier summits I guess! I did rent my axe, crampons, harness and helmets. There are a number of places that sell the tour near Plaza Foch in Quito. Most of the places (Well the good ones) will have equipment rentals for you there, you can always pop in the shop to check it out to make sure its in good shape. You can rent gaiters, jackets, fleece liners, base layers, gloves, plastic boots, headlamps…basically everything you could need should be there.
This means you don’t have to pack for summits, gear is readily available.
Larry Borshard says
Wow, indeed! Congrats! I would like to hear more about your physical conditioning or fitness level. Surely not everyone can or should lay out on the beach for a month before such a climb unless they are already in great shape!
Kimberly Erin says
AHAH, Thank you :) I do tend to the fitness side of life BUT ahah Cotopaxi takes heart more than anything!
I also went to the Cotopaxi Nationalpark, but only up to the refuge with a guide of Gulliver Expeditions(www.gulliver.com.ec). I met so many others though who tried and didn’t reach to top.
Either way it’s definitely worth the visit.
Kimberly Erin says
Thank you! It was a super difficult climb, and about half the people on the volcano that day turned around. ahaha sometimes I wanted to but when I think of it now, it was a really fun night on the mountain, and I would do it again!